Reviews of vacations, hotels, resorts, vacation and travel packages

Where Centro Parties at Night

Travel Deals – Until recently, there was one sound you could count on hearing every night at sundown in Centro, Mexico City’s historic district: the grind of metal gates descending, as stores and restaurants closed. Anyone brave enough to stroll the area at night would have a hard time distinguishing a taquería from a cantina, let alone finding one open for business.

Where Centro Parties at Night, lakeunionwatertaxi.comOne street, however, is luring visitors after dark. Calle Regina, which the Mexican government designated as a “cultural corridor” in 2007, was sealed off from traffic, and storefronts were repainted in bright pastels — part of a sweeping revitalization project that is a joint effort of the Mexican billionaire businessman Carlos Slim Helú (who is also a major shareholder and creditor of The New York Times Company) and the city government.

“We’re in the cool phase now,” said Adrián Calera-Grobet, manager at El Hostería La Bota (Regina 48; no phone), a bar that has been packed ever since Regina’s transformation. As bartenders fix you a Chalice, a wine and cranberry cocktail (35 pesos, or $2.80 at 12.50 pesos to the dollar), peruse La Bota’s latest poetry anthology — another specialty.

Head next to Al Andar (No. 27; 52-55-5709-1468), a hip mezcalería on the first floor of a renovated tenement. Shots of potent mezcal come with a piquant chaser: orange slices dusted in ground grasshoppers (55 pesos). For a light appetizer, try the tasty seafood pescadillas (65 pesos). Vegetarians should head to Pitahaya (No. 58-F; 52-55-5709-8426), a Mexican-Moroccan-Andalusian restaurant that opened last spring and serves up creative fusion dishes like tofu tlayuda with acuyo pesto (80 pesos). Read more »

Tuscany Without the Crowds

Travel Deals – It was a cold, foggy morning in , and La Foce, a 15th-century villa that sits on 2,000 acres of rolling fields overlooking the storied Montepulciano vineyards, was eerily quiet.

Tuscany Without the Crowds, lakeunionwatertaxi.comI walked the stone pathways in the manicured garden. Around me, cypress trees creaked, ripe oranges swayed soundlessly from bare branches and a scattering of white flowers clung to a stone wall for warmth. Far below, a miniature Fiat truck made its way up the hillside, chugging along the empty, winding road.

The last time I was in Tuscany, it was July. Fields were ablaze in that golden yellow you see on postcards, bikers in neon Lycra were swarming the roads, and tour buses jammed the medieval piazzas. And I’d had the brilliant idea of inviting 120 non-Italian-speaking friends to the tiny village of Pienza for my wedding. “Beautiful, hot and full of Americans” was how one ungracious guest had put it.

But now, the temperature had dropped to 40 degrees and the color palette had shifted to the shockingly bright green that appears in these hills only in the winter and early spring. Steely gray fog rolled slowly across the valley, and a blanket of silence suggested a landscape that had gone into hibernation.

Forget the magazine covers that promise “The Undiscovered Tuscany!” “The Hidden Tuscany!” “The Secret Tuscany!” When a place has been attracting admirers for more than a thousand years, no square inch is undiscovered. The real Tuscany, as locals have been telling me over the years, is found in the dead of winter, when the crowds are thinner and the rooms, flights and restaurants are pleasantly cheaper. Read more »

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